Archive for the ‘Italy’ Category

Crashing Local Events (part 2) – Running a Marathon

Monday, November 21st, 2011

Off to the races...

If you follow this blog then you know Miki loves to run.  She’s done marathons, triathlons, half marathons, 10ks, etc.  So, when she saw a poster advertising a marathon around lake Misurina near Cortina, Italy we changed our plans slightly to stay an extra day to attend the race.  There was one slight problem.  The translation we received from the front desk of our hotel was slightly inaccurate.  It went from a marathon to a half marathon to a “short run”.  The staff was very helpful but didn’t really understand what it was but they did know all you had to do was show up.

We turned up on the day of the race and it wasn’t what we thought.  It was only a 3k run.  Miki specializes in longer distance running so this was different but she decided to do it anyway.  She was placed in the “Femminile Seniores” group based on her age and sex with 6 other runners.  The other six runners were incredible.  Miki called them mountain women.  They were tall, big, and looked very strong.  At this point, I would have gracefully disappeared, hoped back into the car and headed for our next destination but Miki just smiled and lined up near the starting line.

Miki running in the Lake Misurina "Marathon"

 

Miki closed to the finish of the Lake Misurina "Marathon"

Not surprisingly, the other women in the group beat Miki but still not a bad showing for running at a high altitude, on a short course, against a bunch of mountain women.  Way to go Miki!!!

Femminile Seniores:

1. Monica Gaspari 10:53

2. Sabrina Boldrin 12:24

3. Marina Piller 12:50

4. Valentina Bachmann 14:51

5. Irene Cicolini 14:58

6. Elena Da Ros 15:25

7. Miki Busscher 15:50

Miki with the race organizers. She was the only non Italian in the race.

Crashing Local Events (part 1) – Speed Climbing

Saturday, November 19th, 2011

Speed climbing up a dam near Cortina, Italy

One thing that helps immerse you in the local culture is to crash local events.  In this case it was very easy.  There were flyers up all over Cortina, Italy advertising a speed climbing competition at the dam.  We’ve never seen speed climbing in person before so we figured we’d go check it out.  We were definitely the only non Italians there but it was fun to see what the locals do with their time.  Plus, watching the speed climbers was amazing.  These guys climbed up the side of the damn faster than I can run on flat ground.

Remember the climbing we did on the via ferrata?  I mentioned in that post that even local kids climb on the via ferrata routes.  This proved it.  These kids could barely walk and they were climbing with no fear!!

Local kids practicing how to climb the via ferrata

No fear…

Kid zip lining down off the dam

Here is some video of these guys flying up the side of the damn.

 

Travel Tip: Look in local magazines, look out for posters, talk with the concierge, find a local event and just show up.  Who cares if you can’t speak the language.  The poster we found for this event were in Italian but it had a picture of a climber, a time and a date.  That was enough to figure out what was happening.

Climbing the Via Ferrata in Italy

Wednesday, November 16th, 2011

Miki climbing the Via Ferrata

The VIA FERRATA!!  This is what brought us to the Dolomites in northern Italy.  I read about this in some travel book (can’t remember anymore which one) that this was one of the top adventures in the world.  After doing it I can say it was a blast and an amazing adventure but one of the top adventures in the world??… maybe a little bit a stretch.  Would I do it again?  In a heartbeat.

Our route on the via ferrata

We hired Marcello via www.dolomitemountains.com to guide us up the mountain.  We started off roped up to Marcello even though the whole point of the via ferrata is that you don’t have to use ropes.  The via ferrata or iron road provides the necessary safety measures for you to get to the top.  All you really need is a helmet, harness, and 2 carabiners attached to you harness.  The 2 carabiners are there so you always have at least one clipped into the cable just in case.

Nathan bringing up the rear on the via ferrata

After a little bit of climbing Marcello decided we were ready to go on our own.  He took the rope off of us.  There would be nobody to blame but ourselves if we fell to our death.  Our lives were in our own hands.  Actually, it wasn’t that scary.  The iron cable is firmly bolted into the mountain and you always have one clip into the cable.  You would have to do something very stupid to get hurt.  Even the local kids do this with their families.  It’s like taking a walk in the park for them.

We did make it to the top and both of us wanted to do it again right away.  It was great fun that was very safe.  I would want to hire Marcello to do it a few more times but then we would be fine going out on our own.  Most of these routes are well documented and well marked.  During the peak seasons you can even get traffic jams on some of them because there are so many people.

Miki standing in front of our via ferrata climb

Travel Tip: If you want help with a complete travel package to the Dolomites contact www.dolomitemountains.com.  They can help with hotels, transportation and hiring a guide.  If all you need is a guide for a few days then contact Marcello directly.  You’ll probably be able to work out a better deal.

Check out this video compilation of our climb up the via ferrata.

Climbing the Cinque Torri (5 Towers)

Saturday, November 12th, 2011

Cinque Torri from a distance

The previous post explained our lack of experience hiking in Europe so today we hired a guide.  We hired Marcello Cominetti via www.dolomitemountains.com.  Hiring a guide was a little complicated when I was going through the process.  It seems like most foreign tourists do a package tour when coming to the area but we were only looking to hire a guide for 3 days.  I took care of lodging, food, transportation, etc to save on cost.  The main problem I had was the cost of about 400 euro per day for the guide.  To me this seemed pretty steep but after more research and talking with Marcello this was about right.

The Mountain Guide Association, which Marcello is a member, regulates the cost guides can charge based on the climb you do.  For example, a very hard sport climb might only take an expert only an hour to do but would cost 600 euros for a guide because of the difficulty.  That same climb might take someone 6 hours but the cost would still be 600 euros.  The climbing we did wasn’t hard or technical which is why the cost was less.  I’m sure you could find someone who would take you out cheaper but do you really want to literarily put your life in the hands of an amateur.  My recommendation, hire Marcello!!

Starting to Climb Cinque Torri

We also upped the adrenaline factor on our climb today.  We met our guide at the base of a famous bit of rock near Cortina, Cinque Torri or 5 Towers in english.  It didn’t look that daunting driving up the dusty single lane dirt road but it was a different story once we got to the base.  The locals call this place “The Airport” because so many people come here to climb because there are many easy routes.  We didn’t think it looked that easy but we got all geared up with climbing harnesses, ropes, helmets, etc and heading to the start of our climb.

After a brief safety talk our guide started straight up the rock.  While we were waiting for him to get into place, I got one of those looks from Miki.  You know, one of those “what the heck have you gotten me into now looks”.

The ""what the heck have you gotten me into now look"

There was no turning back now so we pressed on…

Miki Climbing the 5 Towers

Our guide leading a route on the 5 towers

I didn’t get my camera out for most of the climb because it was pretty challenging for us.  Marcello just walked up the thing like he was talking a stroll in the park but we struggled from time to time.  BUT… we made it and we felt very, very proud of ourselves.

Summit of Cinque Torri (5 Towers)

Being very proud of our accomplishment I wanted to try to portray the enormity of our accomplishment.  We had climbing several hundred meters straight up.  Once we reached the summit we abseiled down several abseil stations (one length of route can’t reach from top to bottom).  This is hard to capture in a photo but I used a 12mm wide angle lens that gave an almost distorted perspective of the side we abseiled down.  If you zoom in you can see a climber in a red jacket about 3/4 of the way up.  Looks impressive huh…

Wide Angle of Cinque Torri

The next day we hiked up a mountain opposite the 5 Towers.  This gave us a very different perspective on the mountain we conquered (also pictured at the top of the post).  Doesn’t look that challenging from this perspective.  In fact it looks down right easy.  A little change in perspective can make a big difference.

(more…)

Cortina d’Ampezzo – a short hike that could have gone very bad…

Thursday, November 10th, 2011

Cortina

Cortina d’Ampezzo is located in the Dolomites in the north eastern corner of Italy only a short drive from the Austrian border.  It is a very popular ski destination in the winter and a climbing destination in the summer.  We were there to do some hiking, climbing and enjoying the great Italian food.

We hired a climbing guide for a three days but the first day we arrived we didn’t have a guide but still wanted to do a short hike.  We visited the Cortina information center and got some hiking maps and they gave us some recommended short hikes.  The chosen hike was route 224 to the west of Lake Misurina.  According to the information center this was an “easy 2 hour hike”.  The truth was this was neither “easy” nor a “2 hour” hike.

Cortina Hiking Map

Here was the challenge.  The trailhead started at the lake just off the right of the picture below.  It continued up the right side of the mountain range, around the backside, popped out somewhere on the left down the rock face, then traversed back across to the start of the trail.  Sounds simple enough but the trail wasn’t well marked, it took a lot longer than we expected and the clouds started to roll in and it started to get very cold.

Mountains around Lake Misurina

We started the hike on the well marked trail and we having a good time.  The clouds were just coming in but we weren’t worried yet.

Beginning of the Lake Misurina Hike

Clouds rolling in over Lake Misurina

The backside of the mountain opened up into a stunning valley.  Nobody was around except for a few cows.  It was all still very beautiful because we though the end was just around the corner.

Valley in the Dolomites

Then things started to get worrisome.  The trail forked off in a couple different directions and wasn’t well marked.  The map looked very clear but when we got there is wasn’t clear at all.  We were hiking next to a very big rock face that had lots of small rocks rolling down the steep slopes.  We were anxiously waiting for one of those large boulders to let loose… luckily it never happened.

Back of the mountain... things starting to get scary

At least we would have had some shelter but I’m not sure how much it would have helped without all the walls and a roof…

At least we will have some shelter... sort of.

We finally found a make shift ladder built into the side of the mountain that helped us get down the sheer cliff face.  This put us back on the trail and we could see lake Misurina again… we were safe.  We were so worried I didn’t even take pictures during the period we were trying to find our way out.  I wish i would have take a picture of our escape route so I could ask the information center how they classify this as “easy”.

However, we made it and just as we saw Lake Misurina we saw some local wildlife… a very nice treat.

Our only company on the hike

We made it back to our car about 4 hours after we started.  Double the amount of time quoted by the information center.  Next time we will do more research and plan our hikes much better or hire a guide.

We did make it back to Cortina and started to prepare for our real climbing adventure of the next 3 days…

Mountains around Cortina

Venice, Italy – Too many pigeons, Too many tourists, Too many advertisements

Tuesday, November 8th, 2011

Panorama of Venice

Venice is supposed to be romantic city that is a must see destination in Italy but our experience was far from it.  Bottom line is there are way too many pigeons, way too tourists and way to many advertisements.  All of these way too many’s ruin the Venice experience you read about in magazines and see in movies.

First, lets start with the pigeons.  They are everywhere and very disgusting.  In Saint Mark’s square you can feed them and every tourist that goes by does which means there are hundreds of them.  You can’t walk through the square without getting crapped on.

Pigeons of St Michel's square - too many pigeons

Next, way too many tourists.  We’ve visited a lot of touristy sites during our travels but this was the worst.  ’ve never seen so many people packed into such a small place and I’ve lived in Tokyo and Hong Kong.  The idea of strolling down the small romantic streets hand in hand with your loved one just isn’t possible.  With so many people you have to walk single file to go anywhere.

Saint Mark's Square - too many tourists

Tourists Everywhere

The worst thing from a photography perspective was all the advertisements.  This I just don’t get.  Why would you cover up beautiful historic sights with advertisements for watches or a outlet mall.  Venice has sold out and it’s ruined the city.

Too many advertisements

and even more advertisements ruining the views of Venice

We did get a few good pictures but even then I felt forced to even take out my camera.  I wasn’t feeling the love for Venice and didn’t really want to take pictures of this place.

Landscape of Venice at dusk

We did eat some good pizza… probably the only redeeming quality of Venice.

At least the food in venice was good

Trying not to be a grumpy tourists we decided to go on a gondola ride.  It’s one of those must do things in Venice so off we went to find our perfect gondola.  To our surprise the guy wanted 150 euro (over $200 USD).  OUCH.  However, this was likely the first and only time we will be in Venice so we paid the fee for a short 45 minute ride.  Once again, totally not what we had envisioned and definitely not romantic.  Just like walking through the streets of Venice the waterways are equally crowded.  Boats were backed up all over the place… it was like bumper boats at the state fair.

Romantic?? Gondola Ride

We did have a 5 minute or so peaceful window when we were out in the grand canal but that was it.  The rest of the time was a less than memorable experience.

Gondola ride through the grand canal

On our way out of Venice it had one last piece of misfortune it wanted to give to us.  A massive parking fee.  Parking in Venice costs 30 euros per day which is outrageous but if you want to park on the island you have no choice.  You can park outside of Venice and take a train it but then you still have to pay 10 euros and then deal with the train, water bus, walking, etc.  The one thing they don’t tell you when you park is that 30 euros is per 24 hours.  If you stay for 25 hours (which is what we did) they charge you another 30 euros whether you use the next full 24 hours or not.  I was pissed and made a huge scene with an ever increasing amount of spectators.  30 euros for 1 hour of parking was outrageous.  Eventually the parking attendant started yelling at me in Italian and all I could make out was something that sounded like police.  Not wanting to visit the inside of an Italian jail I paid the bill and chalked it up to one of those travel experiences.

To end the post on a high note… I was happy with this last picture.  The choir seats of the inside of the church.  The symmetry, pattern of the floors, lighting, it all just worked for me.

Choir Room

Will we be back to Venice?  What do you think??